It's time to post a few photos from my timber house experiment. Here's the first:
I'm not too sure about the colors on this. I think the plaster wall is just a bit too orange. The wood could have been a little more gray (I had to grey it up in the photo because it's quite a bit more brown than what's shown).
I'm also not too sure that this is the best way to make half timer houses either. What I tried to do here is to make building them a bit easier for the average modeler. I think that the two most difficult things for the average modeler are 1) making walls and pieces in exact increments and 2) getting good textures from scratch.
In the simplest of terms, what I'm doing here is "building a box" and then "gluing planks onto it". The trick is to get that box the exact size and with a good texture on it. You also want your planks to already be the right length so you don't have to do a lot of cutting. On the example above, no planks were cut at all. However, the top roofline will need to have a few planks clipped or sanded.
This is the first mold that has the plaster panels on it. All of the panels are 1/8" thick and have a nice texture on them that takes stain well. These panels are all in 1" increments, so basically you are building a box or wall sections from a 1" grid.
If you want your walls to have texture on both sides, then I would glue this to a piece of cereal box. If you only want texture on the outside, then glue it to something thicker such as foam core board. I've laid out the panels leaving 1" squares for windows and a 2" rectangle for the door. Most actual doors are only 1 3/4" tall, so we will end up filling above the door with a couple of wood planks later on.
Lay out the tiles to make the side of your house and draw around them in pencil. All walls will be 3" tall, before you add the roof onto them.
Remove the tiles and spread on the glue. Notice that I did not put glue where I wanted the window or door to go.
Place the tiles back on and push against the edges with a straight edge. I've placed a couple of upside down panels in the window and door areas to hold their place. After it dries, you will have a wall section in exact inch measurements.
Once dry, remove the window and door panels and trim the wall section out with a knife.
I'm painting this a cream color. Maybe white would have been better - I'm not sure.
After the paint has dried, I've painted on liquid brown shoe polish and wiped it off like a stain. I imagine wood stain could have worked just as well. I'll have to experiment with the colors because this ended up being a little dark.
The second mold I'm using is the wooden beam mold. All of the beams on this mold are 1/8" thick, so you'll need to cast them in dental stone. I've kept the small window intentionally generic. This way it could also be used for a barn or western style house.
When these 1/8" planks are glued onto the 1/8" thick wall, you will end up with a 1/4" thick wall section. If you make two of these walls and glue them back to back, you will end up with a completed wall thickness of 1/2".
I'm using permanent double stick tape to stick down the pieces to cardboard. If the planks are not scraped flat on the back (if they are concave), you might have to sand them slightly so they will stick well.
Be sure these pieces are stuck down tight! You will want to dry brush them later on without them coming off of the cardboard.
Spray paint the beams brown. A more grey-brown might have been better but you may not have much choice in the colors of spray paint that are offered.
Dry brush all of the wooden pieces with a light grey-cream color. This is very quick and easy to do when they are all stuck down good.
Once painted, just lift up the strip of tape and the beams are easy to remove. These beams are then glued directly onto the painted wall section and the wall is finished!
I also have a wooden panel mold with 1/8" thick panels and I will be experimenting with it next. I'm not sure how good the wood will look but I think it will be handy to build barns and wild west building with. Seams can still be covered up using the wooden beam mold but you won't have as many seams to cover.
I also have a rubble panel mold completed but I still have to make duplicates of it (this is the master mold). I won't have copies ready to test until I get the pieces done for the Rubble Bridge mold, which I am working on now.
Well, that's it for now. I have a few molds ready but will not have them on the shopping cart for at least a week. I still have a lot of testing to do yet.