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Jun 25 12 8:24 PM
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Dec 21 12 7:04 PM
That old chair in the corner has my name written all over it.
Mar 17 13 2:40 PM
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Apr 21 14 7:05 AM
some of my tips.
1. for casting, use fast food trays. 4 molds fit nicely and are strong enough to support filled molds if you need to move them. they stack great too.
2. build a 90 degree wall jig for your walls. they will come out straighter.
3. get a pestle & mortar. use it to grind up overcasted waste for rubble and ground cover. plaster waste is great for rubble effects.
4. use dyed/colored MDF sawdust for a cheap flock. collect the sawdust heat in microwave for around 30 seconds then stir in color. you might have to heat/mix a few times.
5. for dungeon floors, glue foam on top of hardboard. then build your floors on top of that. this gives the advantage of depth for pit traps, rivers, etc. it might be more bulky for storage, but it looks far better for pits.
6. when baking my own sculpey creations, I use a piece of heat resistant glass as a tray to set my sculptures on. I also have a small 'suspension block' with pins for suspending small bits for baking.
7. I use PoP for filling voids in dungeons between walls. it is lighter and cheaper than dental plaster.
8. use twisted wire for gnarly looking trees. you can also just use very small branches; just make sure they are dried first. another great source for trees/vegetation is plastic fish tank plants.
9. I buy all my crazy glue/epoxy in the smallest containers I can find. when I make projects, I find that I waste a lot of hardened epoxy when I store it. you can buy crazy glue in very tiny 1 gram tubes. I buy the get type epoxy; it allows for better control when applying to vertical surfaces.
10. some of bruce's molds have very few of certain parts. an example would be the very tiny half circle floor of the fieldstone tower. to solve this problem, I have made a few custom molds with multiple pieces in the mold.
11. when making custom molds, plan out your master VERY carefully. I have since made a master jig for my molds, so that they are all the same size for easy and convenient storage.
12. another idea is that I will make a custom mold for builds I will use multiples of. an example would be a mold of 4"x4" floor sections, or a completed tower floor section in one piece instead of multiple pieces. this saves gluing and a LOT of time.
13. TAKE YOUR TIME. this is paramount to a great build. you make more mistakes when you rush it. at least I do.
14. try to be organized with your tools/materials. keep everything in the same area/spot/toolbox. I am very bad at this because I don't have an area set aside for building. I use my kitchen table and bring out things as I need them. it makes things more portable, but it wastes a lot of time.
15. choose a well lit area, especially for painting. use a daylight bulb if you can.
16. if you can afford it, buy an airbrush. DON'T buy an 'airbrush' compressor. they are VERY overpriced for what you are getting. its' cheaper to buy a small 1-1/2 gallon compressor and an airbrush adapter. a regular compressor will have an air tank(better); an airbrush compressor does not have a tank, and will have to run all the time. airbrushes are great for even, cost effective coating. they are fantastic for your black basecoating. it will save you time, and money in the long run. aerosol cans are very wasteful, IMO. you could get into an airbrush and cheap compressor for around $250, or cheaper if you shop around for a sale. just look at harbor freight. a few solutions: http://www.harborfreight.com/12-volt-100-psi-high-volume-air-compressor-69284-8788.html or BETTER: http://www.harborfreight.com/13-horsepower-3-gal-100-psi-oilless-pancake-air-compressor-61615-10382.html I use a cheap no name brush, but I just use it for basecoating, so I can't warrant the expense of a good badger or iwata. I also prefer a siphon feed brush with removable glass bottles for quick color changes. another option I'm looking at is a HVLP paint gun; overkill for terrain building, but great for other applications.
water effect tips.
1. I use TRANSPARENT Vallejo colors for water coloring. they come in dropper bottles for accurate measuring.
2. when mixing colors for water, buy a bag of cheap plastic shot glasses at the dollar store. line them up left to right in front of you and use them as a permanent record for your color mixes. ie: #1. 1 drop blue, #2. 2 drops blue, #3. 1 drop blue +1 drop green, etc. Mix the resin (A+B)first, pour into the glasses, and add the color drops last and mix. label each shot glass for a permanent record of your mixes. a round plastic color pallete would also work well for a permanent record of your different color combinations. this will save you a lot of $$ for future color mixing.
3. when mixing your water effect resins, mix in small batches to avoid waste. the resins tend to harden better if poured in layers anyways. this will avoid cracking.
4. for ripple effects, use either modge podge or you can use clear epoxy on top of your resin cast. draw the epoxy on with a toothpick. you can highlight the ripples with drybrushed white if you desire 'foaming effects'. look at ladysabelle's fantastic Egyptian fountains for great ripple effects. she is a master!
5. plan your submerged items carefully and anchor them down before pouring your water.
6. use clear fishing line for water spout effects. don't bend the line down sharply, let it sag gently and glue the bottom down with epoxy. ALWAYS use more line than you think you'll need; you can trim it later. mix your resin or epoxy with color BEFORE you apply it to the fishing line. don't apply the resin to the line first and paint it later.
7. ALWAYS pour a test piece before pouring your masterpiece. build a small piece and try it first.
8. while layering your resin casts, you can add different layers of rubble, sand, etc, for a more in depth look to your water.
9. if you don't mind yellow tinted water for a sewer or other project, and want to save a TON of $$ on resin, use BONDO fiberglass resin. it is very cheap(compared to others), easy to find and use. just mix/pour it in a very well ventilated area. make sure you pour it in thin layers. I have tinted bondo resin in the past, but if you're not careful it will come out opaque. mix a test batch first. it will take VERY little paint to tint it.
water effects are pretty tricky, IMO. it takes more time, effort, and planning than anything else, IMO.
sorry for the long winded response... I tend to get excited when I talk terrain building.
Jul 2 14 8:38 AM
Nov 22 14 6:15 AM
Nov 22 14 2:29 PM
Boardgame Colosseum wrote:Use metal clay in your molds, and get some nice pieces you can shine up for bronze, copper or silver doors/decorations.
Some very nice bits came out of my molds recently ...
BC: What is 'metal clay', and where can I get it? can you post some brand names and a few examples of what it looks like cast?
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